波の運動による流速
h=5m, T=10s, H=2m, L=65m
比水深 h/L=1/13
h=25m, T=10s, H=2m, L=130m
比水深 h/L=1/5
h=80m, T=10s, H=2m, L=156m
比水深 h/L=1/2
波の運動による水粒子の軌道
h=5m, T=10s, H=2m, L=65m
比水深 h/L=1/13
h=25m, T=10s, H=2m, L=130m
比水深 h/L=1/5
h=80m, T=10s, H=2m, L=156m
比水深 h/L=1/2